Counter clock clever.... I think of looking down whilst spinning, and it may be counter.... yet right this is the factor.. my fiance and that i've got been observing it.. she became into spinning COUNTER clock clever and he became into saying clock clever. . yet how is it so difficult to work out? I merely imagined looking down and spinning like that, or I merely imagined her foot as a clock hand.....Very intresting lol
1. How to tell if the AC Unit is bad or just the fan motor?
For future reference, please provide manufacturer's name and model number, it helps with stuff like this. "The HVAC itself is working fine" but the fan is not moving and there is no cold air coming into the house. Well, there's a contradiction, I do not call that "working fine." We are thoroughly sure the air filter is not the problem, right? Air flow is everything in HVAC. Which fan is not turning, the one inside the house or the one outside? Your indoor blower is probably not running. It may be you have a bad motor or bad capacitor; if the motor is not cooked you could replace just the cap and the motor would be okay. Here's a quick check list for some simple tests: -1) Go to the thermostat and turn it to System OFF, Fan ON. Not calling for cooling, but definitely trying to blow air around. -2) Find the air handler that moves air around inside your house. Open it up and locate the blower housing inside that cabinet. -3) Reach in with a pencil or chopstick, something you do not mind getting chopped up (NOT your fingers) and give that blower wheel a push. If it will turn without making ugly sounds, go to step 4. If it wo not turn or sounds like it's really gritty-crunchy, skip to 6. -4) Find the safety switch that disrupts power to the blower when you opened the air handler cabinet. Hold that closed. Now the blower motor should be energized. If the blower is not turning, reach in with your chopstick and give it a spin. If it fires up, GOOD NEWS, go to the next step. If not, skip 5 and go to 6. -5) Your capacitor might be the entire problem. Caps are inexpensive and easy to replace. Look on the blower housing for what looks like an unmarked vienna sausage can, or small Spam or tuna can. It will have a couple of little crowns on one end with wires attached. DON'T TOUCH IT YET. Even a "dead" cap can give a nasty bite. -5-a) Find a screwdriver with a plastic handle. Turn off power to the air handler and bridge from one crown to the other on the capacitor. You are shorting the two sides together so it will be safe to handle. -5-b) Pop the wires off and remove the cap. Take it with you to an appliance dealer or HVAC supply house. Some places wo not sell to the general public, others are okay. Call ahead. Match ratings on your new cap, and the new one goes in the way the old one came out. Everything should fire right up and you are back in business. -6) Your motor might be cooked. A 10 year old motor is ready to die, 15 years was a damned good motor. But before we commit to pulling the motor, do some testing with a multimeter to ensure there's power getting to the motor and your problem is not something else. If you do not know which wires to test or do not have appropriate tools for testing, STOP. Call a tech. This is not the kind of thing to learn on. Know what you are about? Good, moving on! You might need to pull some wires out of the way for this part - I am experienced at it and not afraid to unplug things, but if you go that route TAKE NOTES of what went where, or take pictures. There's often wiring or plumbing or both in the way, it's a relatively uncluttered place for mounting the furnace control board. You will need to get that stuff out of the way so you can pull the entire blower housing. -7) Do not forget you will need to pop the blower wheel off the motor shaft to get it to the appliance dealer or HVAC supply house. Some places lean toward certain brands, so you might have to select a "make do" option, but do not let that dissuade you. The only real hassle with some "rescue" motors in my experience is the absence of Rheem holes. If you do not have a Rheem, it may not be an issue. But bring your old motor to the place so you can do a comparison. -7-a) Motors ai not cheap. But if you do this and it's what you need to get going again, you are way ahead what you would pay a tech, who would charge for all these parts you are buying, PLUS his markup, PLUS his labor time, PLUS his trip charge. -7-b) Do not forget a new motor gets a new cap. Do not try to save on this, just get it and get it over with. A 15 year old cap is as ready to die as a 15 year old motor, so get it. -8) New bits go in like old ones came out. Put it all back together, reestablish power, do not forget the blower wo not come on with the front panel off unless you hold that switch closed. Do not forget digital thermostats generally wo not fire up immediately, there's a five minute delay to ensure no short cycles that can damage compressors. If the interior blower is indeed working, then none of this was helpful but I could not parse that out of your question. If you need more info, I will check back from time to time and will help where I can.
2. I have a vw 1300 beetle of 1970. Can I use a electric fan motor for cooling?
Sure... but you will spend a lot of money and a lot of work and you will end up with exactly what you have now... an air cooled engine. so the big question is why? Considering all the work you are going to do, why not just swap the smaller 1300 engine for a larger and easily obtainable 1600 or 1700. Those have alternators and the cooling system is just fine. If you want to keep it cooler, consider investing your resources in a supplemental oil cooler instead. .
3. My car poverheats when sitting at red light but is fine when it is moving?
something in the Cooling fan system >> fan motor or thermo switch , fuse ??
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