I'm Replacing My Water Heater?

My husband did our gas one 2 yrs ago, and he never did one before that either, and he did great. Make sure you have the vents for venting it. As long as you have all the parts you will need, and all the tools, you should be fine. The only thing we wish we did for ours is lift it off the floor a few inches or so. We had some water on the floor (flooding) and now there is some rust on the water heater. Other than that, its great. Is not electric cheaper to run now than gas?.

1. Is it ok to put things on top of a water heater?

If it is a conventional electric water heater, there should be no problem placing items that are happy being subjected to 130 F/55 C. If it is gas or a heat pump, it would only be safe if there are no vent holes to be blocked

2. Water Heater - Pilot Light goes off?

The pilot flame should be strong and blue and the tip of the thermocouple should be in the flame.

3. How can I fix this leaky water heater?

I ran out of space composing an comment response to Rick's last comment, so I am going to just make everything into an answer. First my original comment:This heater appears to be much more than 20 years old! I agree a new installation is the best option. However, if money is tight, the valve alone should be replaceable for little money and will fix the leak, but not the other deficiencies. But with old plumbing, you are as likely to break something as to take it apart, so you may end up with a new heater anyway.And my response to Rick's comment:I doubt the water is very hot by the time it drips out, any hose should work, use a washing machine hose if you want one that is heat resistant in case the valve actually blows. You will need a male pipe thread to male hose thread adapter fitting to connect a hose to it. Alternately you could fabricate a drain out of CPVC pipe and fittings.To replace the valve, take the old one out and take it to a hardware store and find a "Domestic Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve" of similar configuration. Ensure the pipe thread that goes into the heater is the same size and gender. Also insure the temperature probe is similar in length or at least is long enough to extend through the heater's internal insulation and protrudes into the tank proper. While you are there, get some pipe dope and enough CPVC pipe, glue and fittings to extend the outlet to near the floor. You do not want a family member sprayed with scalding hot water should the valve release when someone is nearby. Honestly, you should avoid the sink/hose drain option and replace the valve, they are not that expensive. Just do not break anything removing it. If something feels like is about to break on disassembly, then maybe the hose/sink option makes sense. But for your own sake, please start saving money to replace the entire installation. It's not going to last a lot longer.

4. what temperature should my water heater be at?

I have mine set as high as it will go. But then I like really hot, deap baths. Also, I do not have any young children in the house who might get burned by being careless around very hot tap water

5. Help! my hot water heater isn't working, who do I call to fix or how much is cost for new one?

Not working? Call your plumber. Cost will depend on where you are, and if the hot water heater can be fixed. A lot of times its the heating coil. There is a break even point on repairs, too. Will it just be more costly to repair an old water heater or replace it. Water on the floor? Call a plumber today!!! Most Water Heaters have about a 10-15 year life cycle, less if routine homeowner maintenance is not done. I personally would not buy a used one. How old is it? Has it been maintained properly? Will it leak tomorrow? Or explode? No warranty? If dead. Research! The cost will depend on what kind of water heater you need/want. There are a lot of options now. Personally I would buy one from someone like Sears or Wards, or some other simular company that has been around forever and plans to be there 20 years from now (in case you have issues with your new heater). Read the material (from the government) I gave you URL's on. Whichever one you go with, do not choose the cheapest or the most expensive. And be sure you have a good warranty. May I recommend the "Demand (tankless) Water Heater" it is more "green" then the regular large tank ones. It does not store heated water, but rather makes it "on demand". I love them and they are now available in the US. (had ones in people's apartments I visited when I lived in Japan....in 1974.) Note: Demand water heaters cost more than conventional storage water heaters and make less hot water up front since there is no storage tank (for your really long showers). However, you should find that a demand water heater will have lower operating and energy costs (with todays massively growing energy costs) , which could offset its higher purchase price.

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